Delectable kebabs, aromatic biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has consistently been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and visitors alike celebrating its superb cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious list of international urban centers and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it enters a international community of over 400 cities across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its deep-rooted gastronomic legacy and vibrant food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was picked in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this time-honored city comes as hardly a shock to its locals or avid food lovers. Many share the sentiment that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO accolade, this beloved, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is at last in the limelight for what has perennially defined its essence: an profound passion for food.
"'What's for dinner, how should it be prepared' is a continued dialogue from waking up until going to bed in many homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and raised to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, blending Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to feed an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with a flour paste.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also built up a collection of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only celebrates seasonal produce but also offers the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on countless corners, there are small establishments and carts – little-known treasures that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the heart of the city of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from early morning at a famous tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, offered in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can head to a simple joint located in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert found in the winter. The method of making it is precise and involved. The vendor beats the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its amazing light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many but note that their younger generation do not want to learn the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will materialize only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to bustling restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The global recognition, it is hoped, will encourage more people globally to discover these narratives and experience the city to delight in the food wonders of Lucknow.
